Mary James en Provence

The CAMARGUE and SETE....

2011-11-12T20:40:00.000-05:00

There is nothing like a French Road Trip.....especially when you don't know where you are going to end up......having absolutely no plans. Well, this is where we were. We started out on very familiar road where we have taken many a group but quickly after a couple of hours, we were in the back country of southern France. We traveled on our whims....saw a sign....interested...ok.....wanna go there....yeh.......and we were off. First? I saw the sign for Salin de Giraud and immediately knew that I needed to see SALT! OK. Quick exit and we were on our way.

THERE! Looming in front of us was salt, salt, salt.

Trucks moving in all directions.....

and then there is a conveyer belt moving the salt from one side of the road to the other ......What happens when it rains????? X says the salt is very coarse and it just washes/cleans it.....looks like to me that it would melt!

Seems a bit primitive.....it is a huge operation so I don't think I call it artisanal.....This operation would never fly in the US of A!

But thank goodness, I have my salt....the Fleur de Sel AND the Sel de Gris......I guess you could call me a salt snob.....

NEXT??? We passed field after field (should it be paddy after paddy) of rice. Harvest had already taken place so we saw the 'rice straw' and then lots of smoke where they were burning the field of rice straw.

Yes, we were in the Camargue.......

Home of the 'Original Cowboy'

and where 'les taureaux' rule....the bulls are raised for meat as well as for the bull fights. Then there are also flamingos, wild horses, and, in some seasons, lots of mosquitoes.

You can't come to the Camargue without going to.....

...the story is that the three biblical Marys (Maries) arrived here from Palestine along with Sara, who became the patron saint of the gypsies. And since medieval times, Saintes Maries de la Mer is the site of an annual Roma (gypsy) pilgrimage.

Houses of the Camargue use a local resource.....the canes that are everywhere are the roofing material for their homes. Note the leaning cross at the peak of the roof. It is on all the houses.

Then it is a quick stop in ...

Aigues Mortes....

a walled village dating to 10th century AD and also a safe haven for Protestants in the 16th century.

The day is winding down and we make our way along the coast to

Sete
'the little Venice of the Languedoc"

Canals and fishing boats abound.....though it is one of the major fishing ports of France, it has kept its local character and quaintness.

Sun is setting...time for an aperitif.....

Picturesque spot!......fishing boats coming in with their catch.....

Now time to make a restaurant choice....we do our usual walk...peeking in and out of places...looking at posted menus....then we narrow it down.....not surprisingly, we both thought there were 2 choices. One seemed to be a husband and wife team...not too big a menu. But, the other, had lots of fresh seafood for sale (which had obviously just come off the boats) plus the restaurant..........a crowd was also gathering for dinner.... Chez Francois it will be...

I started with 'jols', a tiny fish done 'friture' style. It is one of my favorite things. Xavier had the 'couteux' (razor clams). Both outstanding!

As if that was not enough, we move on to the entree....
whole fish for X, and a combo of gambas (large shrimp), seche (kinda like calamari) and lotte (monkfish) for MJ.

Could not begin to finish.....would kill for it today....so perfectly grilled.

Up early the next morning......stay tuned for Part 2.....the Aubrac!

CHEESE STRAWS......a Southern Delicacy!

2011-11-12T15:51:00.001-05:00

I am amazed how people in other parts of the country have no idea what a cheese straw is. Ask around and see what you find out. Ya'll, it IS a 'Southern Thing'.....especially making your own!

I had planned to blog about cheese straws at some point but am hastened along by my friend, Nathalie Dupree. Today she posted her cheese straw making video on Facebook and I shared with her my method. Instead of a cookie press, I use my Simac Pasta Machine....It was a must have piece of equipment for me years ago and I did indeed use it to make pasta....but not any more. This machine is now most valuable to me for making cheese straws. You can generate hundreds in no time. Don't have a pasta machine....check out EBay.

Here is my recipe....works great in the machine.

CHEESE STRAWS

1 LB. EXTRA-SHARP CHEESE, grated

1 1/3 CUPS BUTTER, room temperature

2 TSP. TABASCO

4 SCANT CUPS FLOUR

1 TSP. PAPRIKA

1 1/2 TSP. SALT

1/2 TSP. CAYENNE or to taste

Using an electric mixer, combine cheese, butter and Tabasco. Combine dry ingredients and then add to cheese mixture. Mix until well blended. Do NOT refrigerate.

Transfer to cookie press fitted with star pattern. OR to Simac Pasta Machine (in batches) fitted with disk that has 2 straight ridged openings (see photo). Extrude and cut into desired lengths. Place on parchment lined baking sheets. Straws can be placed close together since they do not spread. .

Bake in preheated 400 degree oven for 15-20 minutes. They should have a slight color change. Cool completely before storing. Store in tins.

TIPS and VARIATIONS: You should grate your own cheese because grated cheese has an anti-caking agent on it. Also, I like to use Kraft Cracker Barrel Extra Sharp cheddar in the red foil package.

Add 1-2 tsp. Dijon mustard (like Nathalie) OR leave out the paprika and add 1 1/2 tsp. curry powder.

FIGS, FIGS, FIGS

2011-09-01T08:06:00.000-04:00

So what is it about figs that has everybody atwitter....Before I left the United States this month, I had a phone call from my son in Atlanta....his fig crop was exceptional....exceptionally prolific! And then, I was facebooking with my friend, Dorette Snover of C'est si Bon in Chapel Hill. She, too, was covered up with figs. Now I am in Provence and I am greeted by tubs of figs. Nous crulons sous les figues! Perhaps the excitement is because it is one of the few truly seasonal fruits. We know we won't have them any other time of the year plus we really don't see that many in the grocery stores.....they are a farmer's market purchase or a tree in your back yard.

So Dorette and I decided to both blog about our figs this week. See her at www.plantingcabbages.com

The plump, purple variety shown here is Soliès-Pont, named for a village here in the Departement du Var. Sollies Pont is also home of the Fete de la Figue, an August festival that celebrates this ancient fruit. This is the fig that I have come to know and love. In the American South, it is mostly the small brown turkey fig.....to me, a different fruit that is good in its own way, but nothing like the purple fig of Provence.

So what is a girl to do with so many figs.....Well, you might see me sneaking out the back door where just steps away I can feast to my heart's content. But Xavier might have other ideas....there are jars of fig confiture dancing in his head.....and I mean lots of jars. So far this year, the count is 220! Read on for recipes and lots of uses for everything fig......Then don't miss the end......where there is No Fig Leaf for Apollo!

So here is Xavier's recipe for the most popular confiture we put on the table for our groups. It is divine on a croissant or in your breakfast yogurt.

But not just for breakfast, we make a Shallot Fig Confit to use with Pan Seared Magrets (duck breasts) or MJ will use it as a topping for the Duck Rillettes on Crostinis at cocktail hour. To make the confit: carmelize shallots, deglaze with a light red wine vinegar and add some fig confiture. Reduce. Season with salt. Taste for sweet/sour balance & adjust. If you have no duck rillettes, then use shredded barbecue.

FIG CONFITURE

1 KILO (2.2 lbs) FRESH PURPLE FIGS, QUARTERED (or halved in small)

1 HEAPING TBS. ZEST DE CITRON CONFIT (below)

700 GRAMS RAW SUGAR (1 1/2 lbs)*

JUICE OF ½ LEMON

(Photo is 7-8 kilos)

In a large pot, combine figs, citron confit, and 1/2 cupwater and 2 pinches salt. Bring toa simmer. Slowly cook down thefigs. Stir often. They will melt down and skins will soften. This takes about 15-20minutes. Add sugar. Increase heat to fast boil. Cook 15-20minutes stirring constantly. About 5 minutes before end, add juice of ½ lemon.Reduce heat.

Remove from heat. Continue to stir to dissipate heat….about 3-4 minutes. Fill jars totop. If reusing old jars, invertjars while cooling. Lids willreseal.

NOTES: When goingfrom sweet and more pulpy fruit such as pears, figs, apricots to more acidicwatery fruits such as strawberry, raspberry, you add more sugar to the latter (750-800 gms per kilo)

Short fast cooking time after sugar is added will give youthe best flavor. Long cooking timedestroys the color and flavor.

*Raw sugar is the free flowing sugar that is less processed than white sugar. I buy the Florida Crystals that comes in a plastic jug. It is not turbinado sugar....too coarse.

Now for the 'piece de resistance' of the Fig Confiture. ....

ZESTES DE CITRON CONFITS

10 LEMONS (to yield 1 ½ cupszest weighing .140 kg [5 oz])

1 ½ CUPS RAW SUGAR

Peel lemons and julienne into ‘needle’ size pieces …tinywidth and about ½ inch long. In 2-quart saucepan, cover with cold water. Bringto a boil, Blanch, strain and rinse. Return to pan and just cover with water (there should be enough so that the zest floats). Add the juice of 1 ½ lemons and pinchof salt. Simmer very slowly for 20minutes. Water will be almostgone. Add juice from other half of lemon then level with 1 1/2 cups raw sugar. Cook very SLOWLY for 15-20minutes. Add about 2 tablespoonsmore water if zest is not tender at this time*. Do this several times…..the color becomes somewhatbrownish. The syrup is obviouslythicker and the zest is very transparent and crystalline-like. It is done when color of zest iscorrect…..cooked, tender and transparent.

If the lemon peel is tough, it is because it was not cookedenough with the water.

*TIP: If you cookthe zest with the sugar too long, the sugar could caramelize, therefore youneed to add more water to prevent caramelization.

NOTE: You can collect your zest over a period of time (freeze it). As fig season approaches, every time a lemon is used, the zest is removed first, julienned, and put in a small jar in the freezer until there is enough to make the confit. Did someone say this is labor intensive? Great for honing your knife skills too.

I might also call it 'heaven on a spoon'....

For the gardener....

Xavier is very much the gardener and has the patience of a saint (for some things!). So at the end of last summer, I saw him collecting soil on a plastic bag. What's up? He walked over to the tree and wrapped the bag around the limb surrounding a joint with the soil....winter came, spring came, summer came. Then I am in the States for 4 weeks only and he goes to the next step without me. Cut the branch, removed the plastic....Voila, lots of roots.....potted it for his brother. And not one damn photo!! I WILL take a picture the next time we go to his brother's!

This just speaks to the fact that fig trees are hardy, fairly easy to propagate. We see so many in the villages growing from tiny cracks in stone walls and fortifications ...seeds left there by a petite oiseaux (bird)....

If you are indeed interested in all the different varieties of figs, check out this website. It is an excellent source of information about all things fig!

Fig Leaves are very helpful when building a simple food tray
.

and finally, from Nice Matin, we unravel why there is

No Fig Leaf for Apollo!

This larger than life statue in Nice has generated much controversy. It was banned in the 70's from its prominent position on Place Massena because some people were offended by his endowment. In June of this year, it was re-erected on Place Massena sans fig leaf in the location where it was originally intended.

Click here to read the complete story and see Apollo's final resting place.

Don't forget to visit Dorette's blog!

My French Grocery - the Hyper U

2011-08-24T09:19:00.000-04:00

Everytime I go back to the States, I am asked the question.....What is it you miss from France when you come home to the States? You might be surprised, or maybe not, but I miss my Hyper U, the grocery store. No matter where I am, hardly a day goes by that I am not in a grocery store And the U stores are the best.... they make grocery shopping a pleasure....WHY???

In a nutshell, they are clean, very well organized, and the U brands are exceptional....

(Remember, if you want to see the photos larger, just double click on them.)

Let's go inside....

You only see it this empty during lunch time when most French people are home having lunch. Great time to shop...no crowds. Yep, you can buy your dog house there too.

Produce is seasonal. You won't see strawberries in September or grapes in June.....so much more flavor. Notice the price of the leeks...and that is per kilo (2.2 lbs) Why do they have to be so expensive in the US.

Well, it goes without saying that the cheese aisle...no, make that plural...aisles are over the top. Cow, goat, ewe.....fresh, aged.....bio (organic). What did DeGaulle say? "Comment voulez-vous gouverner un pays qui a deux cent quarante-six variétés de fromage?" (How can you govern a country that has 246 varieties of cheese?) And, I am sure there are many more than that now. This is just 2 of the 6 photos of the cheese areas.

It's BIO!

Bio (organic) products are integrated into all areas of the store. But this particular week, they brought them to the front of the store into what I call the 'special features' area that gets changed every 3-4 days.....This area is one of the first things you see when you walk in the store and it is always changing.

Another special feature....Products of the World...

ROSÉ TIME!

OK.....maybe this would be my favorite section......so many choices....so little time....

There are also my favorite things to accompany the rosé...and all of these go home in my suitcase. Great hazelnuts that are so so fresh. The U brand fois gras is to die for. The duck rillettes are really just duck BBQ...quick spread for a crostini. And sometimes the cheese palmiers find their way into my carry-on for a petite snack on the way back. Notice these are all the store brand....the best!

To see more photos, CLICK HERE

So between the local village markets and the Hyper U, groceries are a cinch.....except where are the grits???

It's a girl...NO...it's a BOY.....

2011-07-28T19:44:00.002-04:00

And lots of them, so that means we will be making Squash Blossom Beignets!

Every morning, the squash plants are checked for girl vs. boy flowers. The girls have fruit so we leave those behind to grow into zucchinis, but the boys bear no fruit so they are destined for beignets. In the right photo, he would be the top flower. Can you see the squash beginning on the base of the lower flower? That's our girl! Click on photo to enlarge.

Squash Blossom Beignets

1 1⁄2 CUPS ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
1 TSP. SALT
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
2 CUPS WATER
1 TBS. OLIVE OIL
1 EGG, SEPARATED
18 LARGE or 36 SMALL SQUASH BLOSSOMS
VEGETABLE OIL

optional seasonings: FRESH BASIL, MINCED or FRESH PARSLEY, MINCED or HERBES de PROVENCE

Sift flour and salt into a medium bowl. Whisk in water, olive oil, and egg yolk. Whip egg white to stiff peaks and fold into batter. Add any optional seasonings, if desired.

Heat 1'' vegetable oil in skillet over medium high heat. Dip flowers in batter, coating them well. Fry 1–3 minutes, turning frequently. Drain on paper toweling. Sprinkle with salt and serve. Beignets freeze very well. Once cooled, wrap individually in plastic wrap and freeze in ziploc bags. Reheat until crisp in 350 oven or toaster oven.

How to slideshow......Click to enlarge

Glorious LAVENDER

2011-07-27T12:43:00.001-04:00

What extraordinary lavender we saw this year! It came early....at least 3 weeks early. We packed our picnic and struck out early for the Valensole plateau above the Gorges du Verdon and Lac Ste. Croix (another extraordinary place to blog about later).

The group was excited, and we were too, as we got our first glimpse of what our day was going to be! This was only the beginning!

It only gets better

Breathtaking!

Different intensities in color....different varieties. The pale grey is actually the true and most precious lavender....

WHAT NEXT?

DISTILL IT to make lavender oil. Again the essence of lavender is different depending on which lavender is distilled. The true (lavandula augustifolia) is my favorite. Aspic lavender (lavandula latifolia) and lavandin (a hybrid of the two) can have a bit of a camphor scent...subtle but there.

or MAKE LAVENDER WANDS to add fragrance to your closets, your drawers or even in a vase in a room.

CLICK HERE for STEP by STEP photos on how to make a lavender wand.

or DECORATE A TABLE

and PRACTICALLY SPEAKING....

put a few drops in your hand with some bath soap, lather it in your hands and add to your bath water for a relaxing 'homemade spa'
have a scratch or a bite, lavender oil will take out the 'bite'
glue left behind on a bottle label, rub with a spot of lavender oil and 'VOILA!'
a spot or two on a cotton ball tucked into the corner of a room or in your car is a favorite of mine
a small drop of pure essence in sugar cookie dough for a yummy treat
and last, but not least.....a great aftershave men's cologne

We hope you enjoyed our day in the lavender fields of Provence!

à la prochaine,

MJ and X

THE TABLE IS SET.....

2011-07-15T05:13:00.008-04:00

for the French neighbors to come for an American supper.....

The menu centers around Ribs....or Travers de Porc.....cold salads, cornbread.....and Peach Crumble.

It is all a huge hit even though X had told me that they might not buy into the cold salad idea.

Wrong!

They loved it.

Another big hit is the Tabasco rack. Thanks to our friends at Tabasco, we have the complete complement of Tabascos....Everybody is trying a different kind. Fun!

Great evening.....now I just have to figure out what I will prepare the next time we have 16 French speaking people around the table.

Suggestions??

RIBS 101

This is the practical side of things. I love this menu because it can be done 100% ahead of time....important when entertaining this many people. I, being in France, also have to think about availability of products. There is no Costco or Sam's where I can go pick up a few packages of ribs. I have to place an order with Daniel, the butcher. And we just happened to be there when they delivered the pork. Daniel trims out the 2 slabs and then he has another for me.....this would definitely not be enough if I were serving 16 Americans but X reassures me that we will have plenty. But honestly, we thought we were going to have 13 but invited extras at the last minute....

Two days ahead, I rub the ribs down with Dragon Rub, place them on a rack in a large roasting pan. Add water to just below the rack. Cover with plastic wrap, yes plastic wrap, then heavy duty foil, being sure to tuck the plastic wrap into the edges of the foil when you crimp around the edge of the pan. Place in 400 degree oven and bake for 2 1/2 hours...If using non convection, you may need to go to 3 hours.


Ready with the Dragon Rub, on rack over water...Now cover as described above.

Out of the oven, refrigerate overnight.

After grilling and ready for reheat!

Next day, coat with Sesame Ginger Teriyaki Sauce and head to the grill. Grill just to set the sauce. You can do this part at the time of your party or you can do it ahead as I did. Then at the time of your party, put them on a sheet pan and reheat in the oven.

NOTE: The Dragon Rub and the Sesame Ginger Teriyaki Sauce are essential traveling companions. Asian flavored recipes take so many special ingredients that are hard for me to locate in France. So thank you to my New England manufacturers that make life easy. Follow the links above to their websites. Of course, you can change up your rub and your sauce to create different flavor profiles.

It is also possible to freeze them on a sheet pan, then bag and pull them out as you need them. So yes, they can be done weeks ahead

PARMESAN TRICK

2011-07-07T10:46:00.000-04:00

On the 4th of July, in FRANCE, celebrating AMERICA, X made his fabulous ITALIAN bolognese sauce... But he topped it off with Parmesan rinds....yes, rinds. Remember the fabulous Parmesan I blogged about a few weeks ago. Well, we have been eating away on it and unbeknownst to me, he was saving all the pieces of rind. What in the world for? Soup??? noooooo. It is even better than that. He took these small pieces trimmed into 1" lengths (see photo) and slowly sauteed them in a small amount of organic shortening .....He worked on and off the heat for about 30 minutes, being careful not to scorch or burn....on and off the heat is crucial here. These little jewels along with some fresh peppers from the garden, some pasta, and our Tabasco Reserve made for a fabulous dinner. Gave us just what we needed to get our own little concert going......God Bless America.

Just had to share this Parmesan trick....when done, they were cheesy little pillows!

The Romans Did Everything

2011-06-15T03:11:00.000-04:00

It was a beautiful evening on the coast, but we would learn later that it was the calm before the storm. We journeyed 30 minutes South to check out the coastal town of Ste. Maxime.....explore a bit and have dinner. Here are a few photos.....

After walking the back streets and checking out the shops, we see there is an Italian Fair on the waterfront. Among the vendors are the Parmesan guys from, you guessed it, Parma. We have bought from them before...their cheese is OUTSTANDING......bio (organic) and aged. We bought the 24 and 36 month. Older than that, the texture was a bit powdery. 125 Euros later, we thought we had purchased what we needed!

Then we come upon the truffle booth......can't get past without making a purchase. I bought a couple of jars of the truffle/mushroom spread that I will use on some blinis the next couple of weeks. We are having a great time discovering what we love best.....FOOD!

Time to move on to dinner. We head down the coast and this is where the Romans come in. You know they were everywhere here in the South of France. Julius Caesar came over from Italy (on the Aurelian Way) around 45-50 BC. Frejus was a big Roman enclave, but here, between Sainte Maxime and Frejus, is a small unique site. I guess you would say it was the first fish farm. Yes, way back then, the Romans had the idea to farm raise fish (a vivier).

Look very carefully in the center of the picture and you will see, underwater, the walls to contain the fish. They used the natural calanque on each side to construct the ponds between them. If you focus, you will see 2 connecting walls.

It is getting dark now so we turn our thoughts to dinner. Nous avons faim! A little further down, we stop at a restaurant on the water. Great setting....casual...and the food was exceptional.

X had the gambas and I had the whole grilled fish of the day. Have a photo of his but I dove into boning mine before I realized that I had not taken a photo. C'est dommage....it was great and their sides were outstanding...a couscous. Here is Xavier's shrimp...

And our wine was, of course, rosé......from Rocquebrune s/Argens....our neighbor!

Headed back home as raindrops started to fall. It was the night of the big storm. Made it into the garage as the deluge began! Perfect timing.

Gateau de Jambon, Olive et Fromage

2011-06-13T13:20:00.000-04:00

Xavier and I have been cooking for the last couple of days getting ready for the next groups. For once, I had a bit of extra time and got to cook too.

The French call this a gateau or cake. I call it a bread....a quick bread. It is perfect for cocktail hour or a picnic. The bones of the recipe began with Robert Brunel, a chef friend in Avignon. Of course, I have modified it on more than one occasion to make it work for us in the home kitchen. Give it a try. Enjoy!

GATEAU DE JAMBON, OLIVE, ET FROMAGE

A Provençql treat!

2 CUPS FLOUR

1 TBS. BAKING POWDER

2 TSP. SALT

FRESHLY GROUND PEPPER

3 EGGS

1/3 CUP OLIVE OIL

1/3 CUP ROSÉ WINE (can substitute white wine)

5 OUNCES COOKED HAM, diced ¼” cubes

1 ½ CUPS COMTE CHEESE, grated

7 OUNCES GREEN OLIVES, coarsely chopped

GRAY SALT

Combine the flour, baking powder, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Set aside.

In a separate bowl, whisk together eggs, olive oil, and rosé. Add to flour mixture and stir just to combine.

Toss together ham, cheese and olives. Add to batter and stir to combine. Pour batter into a well-greased oblong bread pan. Sprinkle top with gray salt. Bake at 350 for approximately 1 hour….internal temperature 190 degrees or skewer inserted comes out clean.

Turn out on rack to cook completely before slicing.

OUR OWN TRUFFLES!

2011-06-10T05:34:00.000-04:00

What a surprise when I walked into the kitchen this morning to see Xavier with a PILE of fresh truffles. It could be only one thing. Cedric and his team came early today to work in the yard and after the espresso that Xavier fixed for everyone, they thought they would give the yard a quick 'look see' for truffles. They didn't have the dog but, lo and behold, they found a mother lode under one tree. From now on, I think we should call him 'the giving tree'! He sits there so innocently at the back door but is quietly working away to give us precious truffles.

So this early bird, who is always up by 6, did not get the worm this morning. Can't believe I missed the photo op.....haven't slept in until 8AM for months and look what happened!....You would think the X after being with me so much would have grabbed the camera on the kitchen table to capture the moment! Oh well, here they are with the morning harvest of squash blossoms. Lunch today???? Of course, a truffle omelet and squash blossom beignets....Can't wait!

No way these are for sale but in the market, these summer truffles would fetch close to $300....

To see the making of the truffle omelet, click here

P.S. I have just read this to X and he corrected the fact that in my original post, I made the tree feminine. Of course, I know that in French it is masculine but, for me, this tree that is so giving just has to be feminine. I called her a she. Anyway, when you see it written in French, both the masculine and feminine are 'l'arbre' because arbre begins with a vowel and needs the link. THIS LANGUAGE!!!

Beaujolais...A Photo Journal

2011-06-09T01:43:00.002-04:00

It is mid April.

Xavier and I exit the autoroute as the sun is setting and head toward Chiroubles, one of the ten beaujolais cru villages.

In search of a gite for the night....

This works....A charming winery ....'Domaine 'le Plateau de Grille-Midi'. Then it is off to

....Fleurie, and a great restaurant choice.

Note the vintage...2003. Beaujolais' are typically drunk young but then there is nothing typical about Xavier and myself. The owner kept telling us we should have a younger wine. We did not succumb to her wishes. AND this was absolutely delicious! And my frog legs...a local specialty....were perfectly executed...whoops that doesn't sound right!

Tasting room at our gite.....early morning wine tasting before departure...and, of course, our wine purchase.

Now on to a day of discovery.........The Hills of Beaujolais

Back roads...rolling hills...vineyards everywhere...nothing I like better. We stop for a taste here and there...no agenda....but we do select our tasting stops carefully.....always looking for the vineyards with weeds. Why?....probably means no pesticides.

Click here for a complete slideshow! Be sure to view in full screen. Enjoy and post your comments.

Power is Back! A Frenchman in America...

2011-06-06T08:35:00.001-04:00

No power in part of the house......an important part of the house....the KITCHEN. It has been a day and a half so we are thrilled to see EDF show up to replace the melted box.

One of the men heard X and I speaking English and asked where I was from.....Caroline du Nord, Monsieur...."Oh, I love the USA. I have been there", he said! "But there was one thing I did not understand". Smiling, he proceeded to tell of his trip to Austin, Texas. While there, he always greeted friends and family the usual traditional French way.....a kiss on each cheek. A stranger approached and told him that this is not done in America. Surprised, he listened.

Did he misunderstand? Who knows what the stranger really meant.....were they just curious about the tradition or did they really mean that one should not greet someone in public with a kiss in America. That is the way he took it so from then on he said he and his family shared no more French greetings in America. C'est dommage

And, finally, we pass on a bottle of rosé acknowledging a job appreciated and well done. Somehow I don't see us handing a bottle of wine to the Duke Power guys. Do you?

P.S. There was a geiko that must have been very close when the box was struck. He is charred....absolutely black....but is still alive and well....must indeed have a suit of armor. Have not been able to catch a photo of him.

A Favorite Garden

2011-06-04T07:47:00.001-04:00

Knowing that I visit many places in the South of France every week, people always ask "What is your favorite?" I never have an answer as every week is different....different people, different weather, different season, etc. BUT now, I believe I have an exception. The Ephrussi de Rothchild villa and gardens is definitely a favorite in the springtime. The house with many of Mme Rothchild's possessions has everything from porcelain, to clothing, to art, to antiques....the villa exudes her love of 18th century France. Then there are the 9 magnificent gardens that are changing every week. Beatrice Rothchild took 7 years to build this estate on the narrowest part of Cap Ferrat where she would have a view of the bay of Villefranche sur Mer on one side and the Mediterranean Sea on the other. Views are magnificent. She did indeed accomplished her goal of feeling like she was on a cruise ship. This too was enhanced by the fact that she asked her gardeners to dress as sailors. ...yes, she was a bit eccentric. Married at the age of 19, separated a couple of years later, never to remarry, she bequeathed Villa Ephrussi de Rothchild to the Academie des Beaux-Arts de l'Institut de France who completed the gardens and have maintained them and the villa ever since. To see a complete slideshow of the villa and gardens, click here

Country Ham ...Past and Present

2010-12-11T08:46:00.000-05:00

The roots of this sandwich go back to my childhood in Kentucky. My father would purchase raw hams from a local farmer and come back to my grandmother's where the curing process would begin in the smokehouse that stood between her house and her beautiful garden. These hams hung for at least a year but the prize hams hung at least 2 years. No fast cure here!

Anyway, the hams would eventually find their way into my mother's kitchen where she would get out the big electric roaster and boil them for hours before removing and topping with brown sugar, cornmeal, vinegar crust and baking in the oven to finish. Now these Baked Country Hams were special, very special ....oh, how I would love to have one of Daddy's hams right now....nothing like it. We ate it thinly sliced as a side or on sandwiches of rye bread with swiss cheese and Durkee's Famous Sauce.....which brings me to the reason for this post.

I still enjoy the old version but have tweeked it a bit. I now like to buy the mini rye bread squares and grill the sandwich. They freeze beautifully (even after grilling) and are perfect to have on hand. I use them with soups and salads all winter long....great quick lunch or dinner. But best of all, I like to cut them on the diagonal, nothing fancy here, and use them as an hors d'oeuvre for cocktail parties. Note that I now use Comté cheese (least expensive place to buy is Costco...actually same brand I buy in France) but you can substitute Swiss or Emmenthaler...just not as much flavor. However, there is no substitute for the Durkee's......it is just the best.....one jar will do 2 loaves of the mini rye...so you see we don't spread too much. And since we don't have my Daddy's ham, you can find an Edward's Petite Ham, fully cooked and boned, at Fresh Markets (they will slice) as well as online

If you have frozen your sandwiches, reheat until crispy again....I do that in my oven using convection but it also works on regular bake. I love popping a couple in my new Breville toaster oven ...love that oven....but that's another post.

AIX-en-PROVENCE and TRAVEL TECHNOLOGY

2010-12-01T10:06:00.000-05:00

You know I love to start with food.....this was my lunch at Les Deux Garcons in Aix....Do you know what they are? Answer is at the end .

So now with what this post is really about.....

I think most of you know that I love technology so when I saw this new app for the IPhone (also the IPad and ITouch), I was intrigued. GPSmycity.com is a great travel aid and so easy to take along with you...no lugging those heavy books along. These self-guided city walking tour apps feature over 2,000 cities worldwide. You can grab these apps on ITunes, or the Apple store for as little as $2.99. But, read on to see how you could have 3 of them for FREE..

Right now, GPSmyCity.com is sponsoring a contest featuring Aix en Provence. Answer the 10 multiple choice questions below correctly and you will be awarded 3 city walk iPhone applications of your choice. Send answers to quiz@gpsmycity.com. No purchase necessary.

Aix Quiz

1. Originally, Aix-en-Provence was perceived to be a popular:
A. Lovers' Nest
B. Spa City
C. Delicatessen Destination

2. Home to the famous Cathedral of Saint-Sauver, Aix is also called:
A. The city of 1000 fountains
B. The city of the lit candles
C. The city of the Three Musketeers

3. The biggest annual event in Aix-en-Provence which takes place for more than fifty years each july is:
A. Festival International d’Art Lyrique
B. Fête de l'Artisanat d'été
C. Carnival des Enfants

4. Aix is known for its fabulous architecture, featuring as key elements:
A. Romanesque basilicas
B. Colorful murals
C. Intricated doors

5. Paul Cezanne was born in Aix on 19 january 1839, in the family of a :
A. Hat shop owner
B. Violonist
C. Doctor

6. It was the Greeks who planted the first olive trees in the region and now olives and olive oil have become some of the main ingredients of Provençal cuisine. The first traditional pressing of the year's olives takes place in:
A. December
B. April
C. September

7. June 21st is a declared national holiday which transforms Aix into:
A. A funny Costumes' Parade
B. An immense Concert Venue
C. An open-air cooking competition

8. Current archeological excavations in the Ville des Tours, a medieval suburb of Aix, have unearthed the remains of :
A. An old roman amphitheatre
B. An ancient war cemetery
C. The foundations of a lost city

9. Aix-en-Provence is officially twinned among others, with one of the following cities:
A. Sibiu
B. Cologne
C. Perugia

10. Built in 1792 and have been frequented by the likes of Paul Cézanne, Émile Zola and Ernest Hemingway - Deux Garçons is Aix's most famous:
A. Bookstore
B. Brasserie
C. Perfume store

Reminder....send your answers to quiz@gpsmycity.com. Good Luck!

And, oh yes,.... supions were my lunch at this historical brasserie...... in the family with calamari, octopus etc...They were yummy!

BOXWOOD BEAD CURTAINS

2010-11-08T10:17:00.000-05:00

What beautiful craftsmanship! One sees these 'rideaux' (curtains) in doorways all over Provence. The true boxwood curtain is made from 'box', a very dense wood with beautiful grain patterns. From forest to bead is a long process. It takes almost 30 years for a box to have the 8-10 cm trunk necessary for harvest. Then it has to be stored for 2 years to dry before being transformed into a bead.

It is at this point that Manou Dia-Noguera, one of the few artisans left in France still producing these curtains, begins to work her magic. We see her at the Tuesday market in Lorgues and I can't help but marvel every time I see her handy work.

These curtains are multi-purposed as they not only allow air to circulate, but the boxwood also repels flies and insects. Most curtains are predominately the natural boxwood color, but as you can see, beads can be colored and patterns worked into the curtains. I have also seen them used as window coverings and room dividers. Visit Manou's website. International shipping is available.

L'Estagnol et Domaines Ott

2010-08-23T11:14:00.002-04:00

Beautiful June day on the coast....the weather, the restaurant, the winery.....click on the slideshow above to see the story. I drool over the langoustes.....

Summer Truffles

2010-07-07T12:52:00.018-04:00

The truffles speak for themselves....outstanding.... such great specimens. We will pack some in oil and freeze them but, of course, we are also enjoying many of them fresh.

But you need to know about lunch at Chez Xavier. It began with a Cavaillon Melon soup. He took 2 melons and scooped them with a melon baller. The melon left behind was trimmed out and then pureed in the blender with a bit of Chartrueuse, fresh basil, lime juice, salt and pepper....the puree was then poured over the melon and served very cold. It was so good on this very hot day that I slurped mine down before ever thinking of taking a photo.

Then came the omelet full of truffles accompanied by the sauteed eggplant. And the eggplant deserves some explanation because his method works so much better than the way I have sauteed eggplant for years. First, he sliced it thick (1/2-3/4-inch) and placed it in the steamer....you know my favorite one that you can get at Target. He steamed it for 20 minutes of so.....not completely done but almost. He then removed it from the steamer and dipped it in seasoned flour, the beaten egg, then polenta. The reason I think this is so worth noting is because when the eggplant has been steamed, it does not suck up the fat when you are pan frying it. It was sooooo crispy and good. We had a few cheeses to follow. And, finally finished with an apricot rhubarb tart!

I guess you can figure that my afternoon was shot.....I was good just for lounging in the pool

Les Arcs Centre Ville Flood Aftermath

2010-06-22T00:52:00.000-04:00

Photos: Flood Jun 15, 2010

2010-06-22T00:45:00.000-04:00

Photos taken during the day and evening of the flood...

Flood June 15, 2010

2010-06-16T08:27:00.004-04:00

The rain began during the early morning hours of June 15....didn't think much of it until we heard we were under an orange alert..... The French issue these weather warnings and I have certainly learned to take them seriously. Remembering the flood of 2002 in Chateauneuf de Pape when we were stranded for hours, I thought the worst that could happen would be to be stranded here at the house. ...how bad could that be.....we are at the top of the hill....have lots of food....lots of wine.....pas de problem....Oui? Mais Non....

The rain continued to fall...in fact it was raining sideways. Never have I seen so much come down for such a long period. Xavier and I struggled through our morning errands.....boulangerie, Hyper U, winery etc. Had a great lunch and were headed for a sieste when the water started to roll out of the fireplace...black sooty water. The sideways rain was now flowing down the chimney. Beaucoup torchons and a bucket and we were in control....for the moment. Whoops, the pool is overflowing....X tends to that. Oh my...now no power. Not to worry, we have a generator.... crank it up....How much diesel do we have????

I step out on the porch and there is a roar that I have never heard before....It does not stop....What is it? "Xavier, come listen" and then OMG, we realized that it was the river that most people do not even realize is there. THE RIVER IS BACK! I grabbed my camera and we headed down the driveway. And there at the road (or where there was supposed to be a road) was a raging river. It had traveled through neighbors yards, broken their walls, washed out the driveways......And we both now realized that we had no way out! Oh my, the rain is still pouring from the sky....when will it end.

Back up the driveway, thank God for our high ground. Fall asleep on the sofa ....and finally fall in bed at 2AM....still raining but maybe a bit less.

Up early at 6AM....walk back down the driveway to see if waters have receded.....notice that many neighbors did not make it home ......Water has receded but still flowing.....lots of damage.....In direction Les Arcs, the road is gone and we find out that the bridge at Clairette is out (by the vineyards on the way into town). But the good news is that there is a way out through Taradeau. Sadly, we learn of 10 dead and 18 missing persons. Centre ville Les Arcs is a disaster. Cars piled on top of each other in front of the Casino grocery ....In front of the gazebo, a giant hole opened and the river flowed through the center of the parking lot into the area behind the tourist office.. ...2 houses destroyed.......unbelievable. And at the other end of the street through town....cars are piled up in the pharmacy. Centre Ville is closed so I was not able to get photos.....but saw some that a guy here in the neighborhood had taken.

We learn that there were 200 people who spent the night at Hyper U last night. ..our neighbor being one of them.....another could not get any closer than Flayosc......and we have yet to hear from some. Draguignan is also a disaster ....many people had to be airlifted.....and lots of damage.

As the day goes on, we have neighbors showing up....using power here for charging cell phones etc. One, in particular, has yet to connect with her husband. The telephone is ringing ringing since TF1 (French TV) ran a story on Les Arcs.....I will post this video once it is up on their site as it is unbelievable. Shows what a disaster downtown is. Also hearing from American friends and family that it made the Today show & CNN.

June 21...
We are now in the Vaucluse for a couple of weeks......hard to leave Les Arcs with so much going on ...but have guests arriving so must go and, frankly, are very greatful that we could get out. There was a time when we thought that it would not be possible.

Everyday we saw new damage and more devastation. The most incredible was the gorge that was created. Many of you who have been with us know the road we take to go home...the one that runs by the cemetery. Well, the river created a HUGE gorge with multiple waterfalls and it is ultimately what destroyed downtown Les Arcs. After my initial shock and reaction, I turned to Xavier and said, 'you know, it could be beautiful" . There are no words to describe it and my photos don't show the massiveness of it because I could not get close enough. When we go back I will work on getting photos to post.

We thank all of you who have written, called and checked on us. Say a prayer for lives lost and for those affected by this tragedy.

Sainte Barbe Day, A Provence Tradition

2009-12-06T07:41:00.007-05:00

In Provence, the Christmas season begins on 4 December, Saint Barbara's Day, with a tradition dating to Greek and Roman times. You begin by choosing a saucer or other small container. Cover the bottom of the container with soft cotton. You can use a sheet of cotton or simply pull apart cotton balls. Then lightly sprinkle the cotton with water. It needs to be wet but don't drown it. I like to drip the water off the tips of my fingers. Now, scatter grains of hard wheat over the damp cotton. I purchased my hard wheat from the bins at Earth Fare. Water lightly daily. The grains should germinate in a few days and soon you will have wheat grass. The germinated wheat represents prosperity and a good harvest for the following year. Be careful not to overwater as it will rot the grains.

You can see that I got a little carried away with the number of containers. I even used empty tealight containers, and my friend, Lin, used an olive boat. Use the sprouted wheat on the table at Christmas as well as in and around the creche (nativity).

Wine Appreciation

2009-11-24T12:20:00.013-05:00

I listen to Riviera Radio from Monaco via my computer almost every day. I like the music. It is English speaking and their features interest me. Which brings me to something I heard today that I thought was worth sharing. They have a wine appreciation course sponsored by antiquewine.com. Each segment is just 2 minutes, which you can listen to immediately or download....your choice. I was particularly grabbed by #10....'How to Tell if Wine is Corked'.....It is information that every person who drinks wine should understand. AND, it is the #1 reason for sending a wine back or taking wine back to a store. This podcast affirms the information I have been trying to share for years... So if you are ever at a table that the person tasting the wine says it is corked......PLEASE, take a sniff or a small taste so that you will know what all the fuss is about.

Moules et Frites....Mussels and Fries

2009-11-15T20:18:00.034-05:00

Moules et Frites have to be one of my very favorite dishes. In France, we always wait for the bouchots to come in...usually we see them the beginning of June. Well, we don't have those here in the USA but all is not lost. I was shopping Costco last week and found beautiful mussels from Canada. They weren't too big and were very fresh.....always check the date. There is a tag that tells you when they came out of the water but retailers repackage things and it is impossible to see this tag most of the time. SO....I always make sure that there are at least 5-6 days before they hit the expiration date. One of the bags from Costco will feed 5-6 reasonable people. I say that because I know that myself and many of my friends don't understand reasonable when it comes to mussels......Here is the recipe......

MOULES MARINIERES

3 KG (6 LBS OR SO) MUSSELS
3-4 TABLESPOONS BUTTER

3/4-1 CUP SHALLOTS, MINCED
3 LARGE CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED
1 BAY LEAF

1 1/2 TABLESPOONS FLOUR
1 CUP WHITE WINE ++
1/2 CUP CREAM
1/2-3/4 CUP FRESH PARSLEY, MINCED

LEMON JUICE

Rinse mussels quickly in 2 changes of water. Do NOT leave in water. Trim off barnacles and beards. Discard those that are open and won't close when squeezed.

In a large wok with lid, saute shallots in butter. Add pressed garlic, salt, pepper, and bay leaf. When shallots are translucent, sprinkle on flour. Stir to combine. Add white wine, cream and parsley. Whisk. Cover. You do not want the liquid to evaporate. Cook gently for 5 minutes or so...add another 2-3 Tablespoons white wine. Cook again, covered, for 5 minutes or so. Add a small squeeze of lemon juice. Stir.

Add mussels to sauce. Cover and steam just until open. The sauce is somewhat thick when the mussels are added but the juice from the mussels thins it to the right consistency.

Remove from heat and serve! Discard those that did not open. Don't leave on the heat ....they will overcook. Reheat to serve a second round.

So now you ask about the 'frites'. Well, many of you know of our quest for the right potato for French fries here in the States. Xavier and I have searched and searched but they are just not the same. In France, we buy Mona Lisas and Xavier likes to be sure that they have never been refrigerated....and prefers to see the dirt still clinging to the potato. We have yet to find any like them here.....So with that said I will tell you how we cook them.....

The oil we use is a non-hydrogenated palm oil. The closest thing that we have to this fat in the US is the organic all vegetable shortening from Spectrum. It is available everywhere.

FRITES

Wash, peel and cut potatoes. Now to explain blanch frying....heat oil to 325 degrees. Add potatoes and fry at this low temperature just until they are cooked....they won't be brown or crisp at this point. Remove and drain. Set aside until ready to serve. When ready to serve, increase heat to 375. Add fries and cook until brown and crisp.

L to R: Cut potatoes, Blanching, After blanching, Finished product!

Giant of Provence and Mistral

2009-09-05T02:24:00.001-04:00

Arrived in the Vaucluse on Thursday...beautiful clear evening with slow Mistral blowing. Not the case now with the wind kicking up yesterday afternoon and through the night at 90km/h. This makes for some exceptional photo ops. Took this photo of the 'giant of Provence' on top of the plateau between Isle sur la Sorgue and Saint Didier. Looks like Fall has begun.

Fresh Anchovies!

2009-06-12T12:06:00.001-04:00

At the market yesterday, the fresh anchovies looked fabulous and perfect for preserving ourselves. Xavier layered them in sea salt, finished them with a few twists of fresh pepper and transferred them to the fridge. In about a month, we can use as needed i.e. take from the fridge, rinse them, filet them, and enjoy them. I can't wait. Of course, I will share the experience.

They will last in salt about a year, but if you want to keep longer, remove, rinse, clean, filet and pack in oil. Voila, you have your own salted anchovies.

Love these food experiences...last year, we cured our own olives.....this year, anchovies.

Garden Wonders

2009-05-29T09:38:00.003-04:00

This spider takes on the color of its surroundings...here it has taken up residence on a wild garlic blossom. Isn't it magnificent? And that is coming from a person who screams when she sees a spider. I took dozens of pics!

On this particular day, the butterflies were all over the wild lilac in the garden. Captured this one with its wings opened and it appears that she has not shed all her cocoon.....

ENJOY!

FRENCH ROSE....An Endangered Species???

2009-05-01T16:12:00.006-04:00

I was in the grocery store yesterday and took this photo. Oh, what choices of rose (sorry I cannot make the accent happen on Blogger with my American keyboard) we have here in Provence and particularly, the Var! LOOK! This is ALL rose!!!....A whole aisle!!!!

So, those who know me know that I am a strong proponent of FRENCH rose. OMG, I cannot believe what is happening here in Europe.....blend red with white to create a rose....preposterous...ludicrous......

Below is an article from www.winesofprovence.com that fully explains what is happening. I am not sure what one can do on their own to stop this but I can tell you that the French and particularly those here in the Var (the oldest wine producing region in France) are in disbelief that this could happen. I hear the word 'politics' alot.

From www.winesofprovence.com
For centuries, French winemakers – particularly those in Provence, the world’s leading rosé region and the site of France’s oldest vineyards – have created the “gold standard” for dry rosé by briefly macerating red grapes and removing the juice before it becomes heavily colored. This production technique provides the wine with complexity, balance and a unique flavor profile.

“It has taken many years of patience, professionalism and exacting attention to quality control to persuade consumers that rosé is a distinctive, refreshing selection for wine lovers throughout the world,” stated Francois Millo, directorof CIVP–Wines of Provence. “Simply mixing up a solution of five percent red wine and 95 percent white wine creates a product that, while pink in color, is by its very nature different from true rosé, which is made from red grapes.
“This proposal will destroy the true wine’s hard-earned image and undermine a time-honored tradition of production excellence.”
According to CIVP/Provence Wine Council, the EU’s recommended compromise of labeling the red and white mixed wine as “blended” rosé is not an acceptable solution, as the designation will mislead consumers into believing that this unharmonious mix of “white with a dash of red” is a true rosé. Polls indicate that 87 percent of French consumers also oppose the EU plan.

The EU has stated that allowing the creation of a new, blended rosé will open additional export markets for Italian and Spanish wine producers who may have an oversupply of red and white wines.
The global market for rosé is booming, with rosé making up a fifth of the wine bought in France, where it has overtaken white wine, and one-tenth of wine sold worldwide. In the United States, rosé wine sales grew 53 percent by value in 2007, according to a Nielsen Company survey. France is the leading producer of rosé in the world, and Provence is the leading producer in France, with the world’s only research center specializing in rosé.

The EU will vote in a referendum on the new blending technique on June 19th. If the ruling is approved, the blending technique could begin by August 1, 2009. A delegation of wine producers representing CIVP/Provence Wine Council will be in New York from April 22-25 to introduce their 2008 wines, primarily rosés. During this time, they will be meeting with consumers, members of the trade and the media. The Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Provence (CIVP), known in the United States as the Provence Wine Council, is an organization representing all Provence wine producers and trade companies. Its' mission is to promote and advance the wines of the Provence region of France. Founded in 1956, the organization today represents more than 750 producers that together produce 95 percent of Provence’s Appellation d’Origine Controlee (AOC) wines, or 6 percent of all French AOC wines.

La Premiere Salade

2009-05-01T12:52:00.005-04:00

Oh my goodness, and I do mean goodness! At this time of the year, the garden is delivering the yummiest fresh greens....big rounds of tender lettuces, baby spinach, radishes galore, and, my favorite, the rocket (arugula). Toss this up and serve with Xavier's vinaigrette. I promise you will never get tired of it. The vinaigrette is in my cookbook but Xavier is always changing it up. The one pictured here includes some broken pecans (hand delivered from Georgia!) and onion tops. Of course, there is nothing better than a French baguette (a little mouse got into this one) for cleaning your plate. I love this stuff......In fact, I have just imposed a personal restriction on myself.....no more baguette with vinaigrette...it has been out of control.

Want another treat with this vinaigrette? Grate fresh raw beets...3 or so....and add a grated apple, toss with vinaigrette and lots of fresh parsley....For this recipe add a bit more salt.....and you might want a little more red wine vinegar. (that's Xavier talking on the other side of the kitchen!)

Spring has sprung in Provence.....and I am lovin' it.

Photo Play

2009-04-27T01:22:00.000-04:00

Mary James is playing with photos again.....these are the same photos as in the slideshow but presented as a collage. Finally, building a collage is available for the Mac. But, it has its problems....for instance, I cannot arrange these photos within the collage as I want them.....it just has a shuffle feature. I want to drag and place! If any of you know how to get around this, I would love to hear from you.

Jambon en Croute

2009-04-26T05:33:00.017-04:00

This ham hails from a 'petit village' in the Duchy of Luxembourg and was offered to us by a friend who really knows the specialties of the area.....

What a great way to do your Easter ham! This was delicious! In the bottom of this beautiful pastry were onions, carrots,; celery and 'la couenne' . Yep! I know you don't know what that last thing is. It is the skin around the ham. So, here are the basics......cook a whole ham, remove the skin (la couenne du porc) and place a large piece on the pastry (i am not going into that here....remember, I am giving you a rough idea of how it is done) with vegetables. Arrange ham slices overall. Enclose with pastry.....decorate and bake before serving. I made that sound easy, didn't I????

It was served steaming hot with a piece of the pastry, a vegetable or two from the bottom and some of 'la couenne'. Very very good.

By the way, in this part of the world, the cows here say...."lesst mei Schwain!" eat more pork....not eat more chicken!

Note: This was previously posted in 2009.....just made some corrections to my spelling !!!

Could this be the beginning????

2009-04-23T07:45:00.003-04:00

I have always admired how the French hold on to their regionalism, the integrity of their provinces.....whether it is food, or wine or the number of 'les bises' (kisses) when one is greeting a friend. In Provence, we do not cook with butter but in Normandy, they do. We have olive trees so we cook with olive oil......in Normandy, they have cows so their cuisine uses butter. In Provence, we drink wines from the Var and the Rhone, not Burgundy or Bordeaux. But things are changing....maybe not with food yet, but, hopefully, this is not the beginning of the end of each areas individuality...

From now on, new license plates will only reflect the region where the car resides in a small square on the right of the tag. Always, if you saw a car with a plate ending in 06, you knew these people were from the area of Nice.....83 from the Var......84 Vaucluse.......69 Lyon......33 Bordeaux, etc. Slowly new plates will replace the old and when one purchases a car, the plate will not reflect the region and that plate will stay with that car for the life of the car....even if the owner changes.....changes departements, etc Well, I guess my little game of 'where are they from' might not last forever....a little square today...gone tomorrow??

More Good Eats......

2009-04-23T07:13:00.001-04:00

in an unexpected spot.

We came off the A7 to hit the backroads to Grignan. Hungry again but arriving late for the traditional midi repas. Not to worry. After a quick walk around the castle and through the village, we saw a spot that was more like a bar than a restaurant but they were serving. Didn't expect much but were we surprised. I ordered the cuisses de grenouilles (frog legs) and they were magnificent served 'picata' style.....lemon, fresh herbs.......whoda thot it? I thought we would end up with a sandwich in cellophane! Only in France. The proprietor came out and wanted to make sure all was well....I think he was probably the cook as well......and so proud of his preparation......excellent fresh food...unexpected.

Lyon....

2009-04-21T14:10:00.001-04:00

What a great way to begin my sojourn in France! In LYON....the city known for its traboules, the Guignol puppet character and many culinary specialties. I was in heaven!

The visit began where Lyon began as a Gallo-Roman settlement known as Lugdunum. It sits at the top of Lyon and looks out over the Rhone and Saone Rivers......yes, you can see there was a reason for the Romans to settle here at the time of Augustus..all this water that comes together ... But this is just one of the many Roman sites in France....there are sites from Aix to Arles to Glanum to Nimes to Orange to Vaison up to Lyon and actually all the way to Paris and beyond.

Also here at the top is the Basilique Notre Dame de Fourviere.....not old by European standards...built with private funds between 1870 and 1896, it is perched atop the Fourvière hill, and looms impressively over the city of Lyon, where it can be seen from many vantage points.

And now, we head down the hill to Vieux Lyon, the medieval and Renaissance quarter that extends along the west bank of the Saone River at the foot of Fourviere hill. And, by the way, if you are ever traveling the autoroute through Lyon, the long tunnel is cut under this colline and yet I saw no evidence of it while walking the streets.

This little fellow probably looks familiar.....he is Guignol, the famous Lyon marionnette. When hard times fell on the silk trade during the French Revolution, a local silk maker became a peddler, and then later started to practice dentistry (yep, from peddler to dentist!) which in those days was simply the pulling of teeth. The service was free; the money was made from the medicines sold afterward to ease the pain. To attract patients, he started setting up a puppet show in front of his dentist’s chair. Dentistry is not part of the theaters today but several of these marionnette theaters are tucked into the streets of Le Vieux Lyon and are enjoyed by young and old alike. And, of course, there are artisan shops where one can purchase a puppet to take home.n

NOW....let's talk about dinner in Lyon. Outside of Paris, but perhaps even more so than Paris, Lyon is known for its gastronomy. Yes, it has its Michelin starred restaurants but Xavier and I wanted to enjoy a bouchon Lyonnaiss. And no, I am not talking about a cork for a wine bottle or a traffic jam. In Lyon, a bouchon is a small restaurant, actually certified to be a bouchon, serving food typical of Lyon.

Decisions, decisons....which one? We looked like lost tourists as we circled the streets and alleyways, reading menus, observing the various establishments and seeing who went where. At last, we settled on Aux Trois Maries and we were greatly rewarded with our choice...It WAS FABULOUS. What did we have? First things first! We began by ordering the wine ....'un pot du beaujolais' which happened to be a Chiroubles. (center photo) It arrives in a thick bottomed bottle (un pot) that dates back to 1850 when the furniture makers of Lyon had trouble making a level table. Thus they created a heavy, stable bottle out of necessity. (Me thinks the furniture makers might have had too much of what was in these bottles ) Oh well, this beaujolais from Chiroubles was delicious. Note the bread in the photo.....larger than the usual French baguette, this is a Lyonnaiss baguette......larger! Great traditions....bottles and baguettes.....

MAIN COURSES!....Xavier's choice was Tablier de Sapeur....which told me nothing. Once I found out that it was cow stomach (tripe which I usually do not care for), I decided not to say "I'll have what you are having"!..BUT once it arrived, of course, I had to taste and it was absolutely delicious. To prepare this ( I know you need to know, just in case you want to fix it at home!), you take a rectangle of the prepared honeycombed tripe, bread it with panko-like bread crumbs (they actually make their own from leftover bread), and pan saute til crisp...serve with a sauce gribiche and gratinneed potatoes and you are in heaven. I would order this the next time!

Now for my choice.. I had ordered the quenelles which are a classic Lyonnais dish but, alas, it would take 45" to an hour to prepare....we did not want to wait, so I settled for a Cassolette de Fruits de Mer avec Sauce Homard. It was great...the sauce was sublime. Now just when we did not think it could get any better, we decided to order dessert....something I never do, but the Iles Flottante were talking to me. It is a favorite for me because it is so light, but often I am disappointed when it shows up in a parfait glass. Not in Lyon! As you can see, it arrived standing tall on a sea of Creme Anglaise..PERFECT!

So what made us choose this bouchon? Well, when we had been circling, looking at menus, we immediately dismissed those that had menus so large that they must not be prepping and preparing all the food on premise. We also peeked in a few doorways. But when we checked out Aux Trois Maries, the menu was small, compared to others, but seemed to be geared to the classics. And, then we noticed an older couple arriving and they appeared to be regulars. Finally, when we stepped inside, it was spotless. Decision made, and it was a good one!
Aux Trois Maries.......dining outside.....highly recommended

For more photos from Geneva and Lyon.........

http://picasaweb.google.com/mjprovence/GenevaAndLyonApril2009#

Xavier Arriving

2009-01-01T19:43:00.002-05:00

Caramel Heavenlies

2008-12-05T15:35:00.002-05:00

This recipe from MARY JAMES dishes it out is great for gift giving.

CARAMEL HEAVENLIES

12 DOUBLE GRAHAM CRACKERS
2 CUPS MINIATURE MARSHMALLOWS
¾ CUP BUTTER
¾ CUP BROWN SUGAR
1 TEASPOON CINNAMON
1 TEASPOON VANILLA
1 CUP SLICED ALMONDS
1 CUP FLAKED COCONUT

Arrange graham crackers in a single layer in a 10x15 inch jelly roll pan. Sprinkle with marshmallows.

Combine the butter, brown sugar, and cinnamon in a saucepan. Cook over medium heat until the brown sugar dissolves, stirring constantly. Remove from heat. Stir in the vanilla. Drizzle over the marshmallows; sprinkle with the almonds and coconut.

Bake at 350° for 12-14 minutes or until light brown. Cool in pan on a wire rack. Cut into 3-inch squares; cut each square into halves to form triangles.

Store in airtight container in refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or freeze for up to 3 months.

Teaching Notes: If bars become too hard to remove from pan. Return pan to oven for 30 seconds to a minute to soften. Once you get a corner lifted up, you will be able to easily cut between the squares. I usually cut them in squares first then remove from pan and cut 1 or two times more to create medium or small triangles. The small triangles are great bite sized treats.

Lamb Sweetbreads with Morel Sauce

2008-12-04T19:53:00.006-05:00

It seems that each time my departure from France draws near, my favorite things begin to show up on the table. And this night was decadent. Lamb Sweetbreads with Morel Sauce that had more morels than you could count in it. It was absolutely yummy and the 2004 Domaine Santa Duc Haute Garrigues (Gigondas) was a perfect match.

Thinking Thanksgiving

2008-11-12T14:00:00.013-05:00

Thanksgiving is not far away and by now you could have 90% of the work done.....don't worry, it is not too late. For 25 years, I taught as many as 3 classes every Fall on The Southern Thanks
giving. In fact, this mostly do-ahead menu is in my book, M ary James dishes it out (page 112).

Now for some of those extra tips. The dressing can be done now and frozen....makes 24 pieces.....freeze it on a sheet pan then bag it if you don't have freezer room....just remember to put it back on the cookie sheet before it thaws! Cook it on turkey day

By all means make the cranberry conserve....this is a HUGE hit every year.....double the recipe and it will carry you through Christmas...don't freeze...just refrigerate.....I don't like to do more that a double batch at a time....it seems to change how it sets up and thickens if you do more than that......The picture on the left shows you the approximate size of the fruit when it is cut......Bring to a simmer (slow boil) and then time it for 20 minutes stirring occasionally......This dish sparkles when presented in a glass/crystal dish.

MJ in Provence

2008-11-12T09:16:00.004-05:00

OLIVES....one year later

2008-10-11T02:24:00.011-04:00

OK...I know, I know. I keep getting requests for more blogs. Even though there is so much that I want to share, it is next to impossible to blog when we are welcoming groups to Provence.

So now it is early in the morning. The Provence light is casting its golden/orange shadows across the porch. I have my cup of steaming coffee and am the beginning of this day could not be better.

Throughout the season, Xavier and I get lots of questions about the olives. There are 17 trees here on the property and everyone wants to know what happens next. So, in a nutshell, here it is. As the olives ripen, they are hand picked or, in some instances, raked from the trees. At this point, they can go to the mill to make olive oil, or be preserved whole in brine, or dry cured with salt, or treated industrially with lye. But, to become edible/palatable, no matter how green or ripe (black) an olive is, it must be processed to remove the bitterness.

So now, it has been almost a year since these olives went into the brine. Yes, I know we are rushing the process a bit since it can take a year ++ to cure olives this natural way, but my time here is short and I just can't wait! Anyway, they will continue to mellow without the cap. During this past year, a cap formed across the top and actually acted as a seal. Yes, it looks like mold and, in fact, is mold. But, by now, you know that all mold is not bad i.e. the cheese lesson posted previously (see Blog Archive, May 2007) Xavier carefully lifts the cap from the olives and !voila!, we are sampling the olives grown right here on his property. Delicious and full of flavor.....we even rinse those that were trapped in the cap, drizzle with some of the olive oil from his trees and yum, yum, yum! Click on the slideshow to view the uncapping process!

Sights from Xavier's and the Cote d'Azur

2008-04-27T14:52:00.005-04:00

To enlarge, click on the photo, then view album, then slideshow.......

Sights from MJ's House in Provence

2008-03-19T10:04:00.005-04:00

Enjoy!..

Oatmeal Cherry Cookies & Black Ice

2008-01-22T07:18:00.002-05:00

PHOTOS: Breakfast set-up. Warm McCann's nutty oatmeal in the copper chafer accompanied by Raspberry Muffins, bacon, fresh OJ, and hot coffee. The raspberry muffins are on page 48 of Mary James dishes it out!

So my day began at 4:30 with prepping for the arrival of The Good Morning Show here at the house. Today was to be all about oatmeal. Warm and cozy with great smells coming from the kitchen, we thought we were all set until someone mentioned black ice and a winter weather advisory. Whoops!...Out the door they went to cover developing weather. Since we had mentioned that Oatmeal Cherry Cookies were coming up in the next segment and they are still on the counter waiting for their moment of fame, I will pass along the recipe here.

OATMEAL CHERRY COOKIES

2/3 CUP FLOUR
1 TEASPOON CINNAMON
1/2 TEASPOON BAKING SODA
1/2 TEASPOON SALT

3/4 CUP BUTTER
1/2 CUP SUGAR
1 CUP LIGHT BROWN SUGAR

1 EGG
2 TABLESPOONS WATER
1 TEASPOON VANILLA EXTRACT

3 CUPS QUICK COOKING OATS
1 CUP DRIED CHERRIES

Combine flour, cinnamon, baking soda, and salt. Set aside.

Using a mixer, combine the butter, sugar, and brown sugar well. Add egg, water, and vanilla. Beat to thoroughly combine. Add flour mixture and mix well. Add oats and cherries, stir to combine.

Using a #16 ice cream scoop, place cookie dough on cookie sheet lined with parchment or reuseable pan liner (or grease the pan).

Bake in preheated 350 oven for 15-18 minutes.

Yield: 20 cookies

Variation: Add 1/2 cup chopped walnuts to the batter when adding oats and cherries.

These cookies freeze great.

Spinach Artichoke Dip

2008-01-05T10:53:00.001-05:00

1 13.5 OUNCE CAN ARTICHOKE HEARTS IN WATER
1 10 OUNCE PACKAGE CHOPPED SPINACH

1/2 CUP MAYONNAISE
2/3 CUP SOUR CREAM
3 OUNCES CREAM CHEESE, ROOM TEMPERATURE
3/4 CUP CHEDDAR CHEESE, GRATED
1/2 CUP PARMESAN CHEESE, GRATED
1 TEASPOON DRIED THYME
1 TEASPOON FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
1/2 TEASPOON TABASCO OR TO TASTE

Drain artichokes very well. Chop coarsely. Thaw spinach and drain very well, squeezing very dry with your hands. Set aside.

In the mixer, combine mayonaise, sour cream and cream cheese. Add remaining ingredients plus artichokes and spinach. Mix to combine.

Transfer to a heatproof shallow serving dish. Bake in preheated 350 oven for 15-20 minutes or until hot throughout. Serve with crackers or sliced toasted baguette.

Alternative: For large events, transfer mixture to chafing dish and serve hot from chafer.

Variation: Add 1/2 pound crabmeat.

Coming Soon...

2007-12-29T13:03:00.000-05:00

As promised, when I am asked about a recipe that was not included in Mary james dishes it out, I will try to include it here or in the e-newsletter. So to quiet the roaring crowd...a Roosters on the Run favorite will be the next recipe posted in my blog....Spinach Artichoke Dip.. Currently, the recipe is food service size yielding 15 pounds. I just need to trim it down to a household version, test it, then post. This should happen within the next few days.

Add this blog to your favorites list
www.maryjamesenprovence.blogspot.com
and keep checking. It will be posted before the next e-newsletter.

Favorite Equipment - The Steamer

2007-12-29T11:12:00.002-05:00

The steamer has become my best friend. Above you see three different sizes of the traditional stackable bamboo steamer (left) that works over water in the wok...you would keep one basket for meat/fish and the other for vegetables. These are inexpensive especially when purchased in the ethnic markets.

However, my favorite is the electric steamer (right). It is inexpensive also...$29.99 at Target the last time I checked. I use it almost everytime I cook....and, by the way, I don't cook every night. The Sizzling Fish Filets with Ginger and Green Onions (p. 116) are fabulously quick and easy in the steamer...And you will get RAVE reviews on this dish.... The steamer is perfect for all your vegetables.... steam potatoes for mashing or serve them just steamed with a bit of parsley, salt and pepper....or add a few turnips to the potatoes for an interesting twist....cabbage, carrots, cauliflower....asparagus, parnips, sweet potatoes....the list is endless. So healthy and they really do taste better. Dishwasher clean up or sometimes just a quick rinse will do. Bowls stack to store.

Testimonials

2007-12-29T11:00:00.001-05:00

Booksignings have been great for me. Not only do I get to visit but many of you already have the book, and are trying the recipes, and are giving me such great feedback.....THANK YOU!.... I just have to share some of your comments...

-I LOVE your book.....It does not challenge my culinary skills...

-The Pan Seared Scallops were divine....and so quick to do

-I had no idea it would be this easy....all I have to know how to do is measure! I am inspired.

-I have already made the Sizzling Fish Filets with Ginger and Green Onions for my family and they loved it and it took me no time. MJ'S note: read about steamer in previous blog.

-The recipes are so easy to read and to follow.....I love the teaching notes.

So it seems that many of you have picked up on the ease of preparation of the recipes in Mary James dishes it out. It has always been my goal to make life easier and simpler in the kitchen whether it is the recipe you are preparing or the equipment you are using.

Getting Ready for the Holidays

2007-12-14T08:07:00.001-05:00

This has been a great morning....up very early....turned on the Christmas music in the kitchen and started baking. First on the agenda was angel biscuits ....I made the dough last night and after being refrigerated overnight, the dough is perfect to roll out. Remember that it is sticky....just scoop part of it out onto a heavily floured board.....sprinkle heavily with flour and press with the palm of your hand before you finish rolling with the rolling pin. Tomorrow or the next day, they will be stuffed with country ham, wrapped in foil and put in the freezer.....Do you think 24 dozen is enough??? Maybe not. TIP: Kathy S. reminded me .. use cold water to wash a bowl with dough remnants.....it just rinses away!

Next project.....Raspberry Muffins...page 48 of Mary James dishes it out I LOVE these muffins...light...not too sweet. These are a real treat on Christmas morning. They freeze great! When I freeze them, I usually
bake them in greased and floured muffin tins.....no paper liner.

The pictures are just a petite dejeuner (breakfast) set-up from these goodies that I had in my freezer at the time....

Speaking of Christmas......there are 2 favorite holiday breakfast casseroles in THE book.....pages 123 for Hash and Sausage Casserole (can do ahead and it freezes, uncooked) and the #1 requested breakfast casserole is on page 124 French Toast Casserole (can do a couple of days ahead and cook on Christmas morning, but does not freeze).

I could go on and on with suggestions but will save my quick entree ideas for a later blog...

Here is a popular recipe from one of the Gifts of Food classes....

MARSHMALLOW FUDGE

1 1/2 CUPS SUGAR
1 7-OUNCE JAR MARSHMALLOW CREAM
2/3 CUP EVAPORATED MILK
1/4 CUP BUTTER
1/4 CUP KAHLUA
1/4 TSP. SALT

2 CUPS SEMISWEET CHOCOLATE CHIPS
1 CUP MILK CHOCOLATE CHIPS
1 TSP. VANILLA
3/4 CUPS CHOPPED NUTS

Combine first 6 ingredients in 3-quart saucepan. Bring to rapid boil and cook stirring constantly for 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Add chocolate chips. Stir until melted. Add vanilla. Stir. Pou into greased 8-inch square pan. Refrigerate until set.

PROVENCE ART in Greensboro

2007-11-14T08:44:00.002-05:00

You get a taste of Provence these days when you walk down South Elm Street. The work Xavier's father, Bernard, is being featured at The View on Elm for the next couple of weeks. Stop by and enjoy!

Grand Canyon of France

2007-11-11T06:54:00.001-05:00

On this day, we headed North from Xavier's into more of the backcountry. It seems that many people think that Provence is a flat country. We explode that myth when the Grand Canyon of France pops into our view. The lake is phenomenally blue...the paddle boats are most inviting as they wind there way into the gorge. No one can believe the vividness of color. Today we are lucky and the Canadair fire planes are doing practice exercises.....flying in, swooping down and scooping water from the lake to take to distant fires....one after the other. We could make a whole album with the photos taken here.

Cashiers, Carts, and Sacks

2007-10-21T19:26:00.001-04:00

I live in the grocery store in France as much as I do here in the States. I have made several observations....not just about the food that is there...which is obviously different...but, the basics are different too.

First, once you are parked, you go to the cart area and get a cart. To do this, you must use a 1 Euro coin or perhaps you have a token from a grocery store promotion. Insert the coin and the chain releases and you have a cart for shopping. NO, you are not paying a Euro for the use of the cart. You get your Euro back when you return the cart and reconnect the chain.. SIMPLE....No carts rolling around the parking lot....and never necessary to send someone to round up carts. So when I think about how this could be done here, I realize that we don't have a 'common' coin that has perhaps enough value to insure the return of the cart....would a quarter do it......no one ever has a $.50 piece or a dollar coin in their pocket.

Second....Note the pic of the cashier....she is seated and has total control of all around her. Cashiers unite! You need to sit down...it works.

Third.....Over the past 2-3 years, ALL the grocery stores...big and small....do not give you any kind of sack or bag for your purchases. It is about 'being green' and environmentally conscious. You can purchase a plastic bag (like we have) for less than a nickel or you can bring your own bag and fill it. Heavy duty reuseable bags are always on sale for less than a Euro. I must tell you that I have never seen anyone buy the bags like we use. If they don't have a bag with them, many people keep a box or cooler in their car and just reload their cart at check-out and make the transfer when they get to the car. Obviously, it is easier to just take your reuseable bag into the store. And, you do bag your own groceries. I do that here but I think I am the exception. I like organizing them to make putting them away easier when I get home. OK ...enough of this.

Finally, I don't think there is much you and I can do about the first two items but we can certainly take our own shopping sack with us and diminish our impact on the planet. It is just a habit that we need to develop.

Exploring Provence

2007-06-30T10:12:00.004-04:00

Free days between groups are frequently spent exploring new places. In June, we took advantage of one of these days to head up into lavender country. The lavender was just beginning to open, the poppies were finishing their season and the backroads were calling us.....the route touristique was not yet busy and one could enjoy the scenery without the hassle of traffic. This route through the gorge du Nesque is very popular with cyclists.....they definitely outnumbered cars and once at the top we see that the village is indeed full of bicycles. Hadn't been here in 7 years but nothing has changed....a favorite nougatier is still here....the artisanal butcher shop hasn't changed....there are just more cyclists.....the Gorge du Nesque is beautiful but doesn't quite match the Verdon on the other side. From here, our loop takes us to a small village above Apt where we visit a local lavender grower who produces his own lavender oil......we stock up....quarts of lavender oil....did I say 100 kilos of blossoms to produce a liter....WOW...we just bought 4 liters....

Paris Surprise

2007-06-30T09:37:00.001-04:00

Headed to Paris the beginning of June for a friend's birthday party. Of course, days were taken up with sightseeing and visiting places I hadn't been to in years....and walking miles and miles. BUT all this walking paid off.

Xavier took the less traveled route from the Arc de Triomphe and we ended up on Rue du Faubourg Saint Honore in front of the Elysee Palace...the home of the new French president, Nicolas Sarkozy. He must have known we were there because the gates opened, the car pulled into the street, stopped and out jumps Sarkozy! He greeted the 10-15 of us who were lucky enough to just be passing by. Very exciting....and I can say that he has a great smile and lots of charisma. Check out the photo

From there, we landed at a restaurant that I can highly recommend. Alain Senderens closed Lucas Carton and reopened as Senderens...a more low key casual restaurant than his starred Lucas Carton. There are actually 2 entities here....the restaurant Senderens and the upstairs bar. ...Le Passage.....named this since access is through the alley (Passage de la Madeleine) to the side of the restaurant. Get buzzed in, proceed upstairs and enjoy the small plates that they offer. I loved the Pastilla de Pigeon, Vinaigrette Epicée et Mesclun...it was perfect with the crisp white wine that was chosen

Flowers of Spring

2007-05-28T08:31:00.002-04:00

The poppy fields have been extraordinary...more plentiful and brilliant than ever. There are fields of poppies...then there are poppies falling over stone walls and even a lone ranger or two in the middle of a rocky path. They grow everywhere. We were such in search of them last year but never had the vistas that there have been in '07. Am taking lots of photos for my artist friends.

So many things are blooming. Here at Xavier's, he allows the wildflowers to progress through the Spring and mows only when they are spent.....first the tiny yellow flowers that blanket the yard....then come the bluets (though not the one we have), followed by the poppies and now the wild verbena (perennial verbena at home) with a yellow daisy......Nature sure does have alot to offer.

Last week, we made the trip to Abbaye de Senanque where the monks grow lavender and lavandin.....The monks have done an amazing amount of work since my last visit in September. The fields are gorgeous and I can't wait to return there in June when the lavender blossoms will be bursting forth......a field of purple. Lavender fields are everywhere......Did you know that it takes 100 kilos of blossoms (and think how light they are) to produce 1 liter of lavender essence! Below is the picture from the entrance of Senanque. I will take the same picture with the lavender in bloom in June.

CHEESE LESSON

2007-05-07T14:08:00.002-04:00

I share with you a picture of yesterday's cheese tray. I want you notice the cheese in the center and the cheese at 12 o'clock. Most Americans would have discarded these cheeses long ago. However, they are the most special cheeses on the tray. Both began as a simple fresh goat cheese about the size of the cheese in the center. The cheese in the center is about 1 month old and has a bit of fluff growing on it. You know, good cheese is alive!!! The cheese at 12 o'clock was fresh in February and has been allowed to cellar age or age in a refrigerated situation where there is air circulation. So with this cheese tray in front of you, what do you choose and in what order.

At 9 o'clock is a Brique de Ewe. This is the mildest cheese and a place for you to begin. Next, at 2 o'clock is the Petit Basque (another ewe cheese but the process is different where the milk has been warmed and then the rind is rubbed with a salted cloth..causing the rind to get thicker and thicker). Then let's move to the first aged fresh goat cheese in the center. It has a bit more flavor than the fresh goat...don't shy away from the fluffy mold. It is okay. Remember cheese is living! Then the aged fresh at 12 o'clock....Before going further, I will tell you that I love all of them but I found this cheese a bit salty. As with all aging processes, flavors are concentrated. The mold you see on the cheese was not a problem, but the salt was for me. Finally, the cheese at 6 o'clock is calling me. I know this cheese and I love it!.. It stinks to high heaven when opened, but has a flavor that goes fabulously with red wine. It is Muenster from Alsace.

None of these cheeses are cut so that I can address the issue of 'cutting off the Pope's nose'.....a bit of cheese etiquette 101. Maybe another blog

P.S. I have corrected the times listed for my postings. They have been wrong. It is 8:05PM here and from now on you will see that I am posting on my time here in France....C'est 2:05PM in NC right now....

WRAP-UP ON ELECTION

2007-05-06T14:04:00.001-04:00

Well, it is remarkable to me that at 8PM....seconds after the polls close, a winner is announced. How do they know so fast??? Truly, the clock was ticking down on the television and BOOM the announcement that SARKOZY WINS with 53% of the vote! Also, I am amazed at the voter turnout...85%.....they are passionate about their politics. No laisser faire ici....or voter apathy.

Xavier says they know how to count votes!

SARKOZY WINS

2007-05-06T14:01:00.001-04:00

AMAZING....there is a countdown just like New Year's Eve for the 8PM announcement. Sarkozy has won with 53% of the vote.

FRENCH ELECTIONS

2007-05-06T11:51:00.001-04:00

Today, Sunday, is election day here in France. There is excitement in the air. It has been THE topic of conversation for days...whether with friends and neighbors or around the table at meal times.

THe morning greeting this morning was "Today is the big day".......I'm thinking...big day....what is it.....what have I forgotten....where are we going???? Wrong! France is getting a NEW president! I won't pretend to know a tenth of what the average Frenchman knows but they are all animated and very excited about the change. The candidates are Segolene Royal, the Socialist illegitimate daughter of former President Mitterand...and you know the French could care less what her birth status was .....and Nicolas Sarkozy, the conservative candidate who is promoting law and order and economic reform. Now that is as far as I am going with the politics....

Our day here in Les Arcs moved from the declaration of a 'big day' to going downtown where Bernard, Madeleine and Xavier voted. It was pretty much like our USA set-up but NO computers. Each of them had a voting card that was to be stamped (see pic) when they presented their identification. Then there were 2 stacks of paper ballots....one for Royal and one for Sarkozy.....Most people pick up one of each and then go into booth and 'isoloir' (isolate themselves) to vote by placing the paper with their candidate into the box. Guess you could count the trashcan to see who loses!

Local jokes abound.....X received a text message from a friend yesterday ... Tomorrow, vote for Sarkozy so Royal remains only the name of a pizza!......

Today was only a presidential election.....the legislative election will be in June....never at the same time as we do.

It is 7PM here now. Most polls closed at 6PM except for the big cities which close at 8....Supposedly we will know at 8. Voter turnout is supposed to reach 85%. AMAZING!

SEASONAL FARE

2007-05-04T12:32:00.001-04:00

It is always an adventure finding out upon arrival what is blooming, what trees have fruit, what is in the garden. Today was no exception. Look at these luscious artichokes...les petit violet de Provence. I have a picture from my files that shows a larger variety of an artichoke that has been allowed to go to flower...that flower is the choke that we remove before eating.

Walk into the kitchen this morning and there are two big containers of fresh strawberries...and not just any strawberries. These are the berries from Carpentras which is known for these luscious gems. These berries are about the size of the end of my ring finger and really taste and smell like strawberries. They have not been hybridized to the point of being huge with no flavor. This is what strawberries are supposed to be. Rarely, do we find them in the States. It hasn't been long since my arrival and between Xavier and myself (mostly me), the baskets are empty. I transferred some to a dish for photgraphing....maybe you can catch a whiff.....YUM..

Now, on tap for tonight's dinner are white asparagus....Having had many last Spring when I was here, I am looking forward to the evening repas (actually, I look forward to it every night if the truth be known). But, I have never liked those that I purchase in the grocery stores at home. Maybe I don't do something right but they are always tough and bitter for me. These are tender and succulent....and even more so with Xavier's vinaigrette.

I was looking forward to picking the cherries from the tree at my house in a couple of weeks....the usual time for them to be ready, but Xavier tells me that Spring came early.........and between that and a frost at an inopportune time, there are few cherries to be had....It seems to be the same scenario that was played out in North Carolina this year.

TRAVEL DAY

2007-05-04T12:06:00.001-04:00

What can I say? Travel these days is not as easy as it once was and leaving from the big city of Atlanta made it even more laborious. Their sidewalk check-in was fabulous....no line....friendly personnel who even gave me 3 drink coupons for the flight...did I look like I needed a drink at 10AM in the morning?? Anyway, that is where the fun stops. Once inside and I was faced with the line (or should I say lines) through security. From the time that I was dropped off, it took one full hour to get through security and to my gate. Great flight to NY/JFK and then the interminable 5 hour wait for the next flight!

I think that JFK has undoubtedly the worst signage of any airport/train station/hospital/ or other place where you have no idea where you are. In my 5 hours there, I thought that perhaps I could redesign their directional signs..... heaven help the poor international traveler who doesn't speak English. Enough of that....I headed to the Sam Adams bar where there was a WiFi connection....my entertainment for the next few hours.

At the gate: Everyone is arriving.....3 people in wheel chairs.....2 people with dogs......more people than I can count with babies and children....and many different languages. Woman who arrived in a wheelchair with crutches and a dog needs to go to bathroom but can't manage dog, crutches and handbag alone. She doesn't speak English so I figure she speaks French...no, she speaks Portuguese, Spanish and Italian. I am not much help but find an Italian lady to help her. Now this is a brave traveler.

Flight is full but again I have my good Karma and there is no one beside me....I see no other empty seats.....I guess my focusing on this for the last 3 months helped.

Enough of this...arrived on time in NIce to cool, rainy weather...a first......but, to me, the sun was shining!

2006-08-22T05:59:00.002-04:00

This first blog was written in August of last year when I thought I would have the time to share my thoughts on a regular basis. Well, only one entry was completed. so here we are in the Spring of 2007 and again, I have the best of intentions. We'll see. Enjoy this teaser from last year and I will do my best to get this blog going.

August 2006....Am back in Provence and loving every minute....Il fait beau ici.....the sky is a rich, bright blue and the sun is pouring down....but it is not too hot, and there is definitely no humidity. What more could I ask for?

Before the blog started, I shared with many of you the trials and tribulations of my American dinner in Provence...where buying ribs required the butcher to buy whole pigs for every 2 slabs of ribs I requested. And his concern was, of course, how to sell the rest of the pig. Well, Xavier helped out by buying one of the heads...yes, the head. which he used to prepare Fromage de Tete.....a wonderful terrine that could be a first course or great light lunch... see photo of Petunia and Fromage de Tete de Porc.....I imagine some of you are saying they don't look like our ribs and indeed they didn't. Xavier trimmed the slab and this meat was cubed and used for yet another dinner .... Waste not, want not.....c'est si vrai en France (so true in France). Boy, do we take for granted all those packages of baby backs piled up at Costco! Note to our guests in France...it is doubtful that this would appear on one of your menus...so don't worry

I can't believe that I have finished THE cookbook and at the end of it (finished 3 hours before flight to France), I thought I never wanted to see or write another recipe. Well, I think it is just like having a baby....lots of people have more than one child! And I now know that the second book is in its infancy.....am working on the concept of Xavier and Mary James Dish it Out in Provence. This will include local Provencal favorites and also those foods that have been so popular with our tour groups. I thought there was no way that this would happen but have already begun to write and photograph... Thus this blog will mainly focus on food and be a helping tool for me in getting this book started....but then again I do not think that Fromage de Tete will make the book.

The simplicity of what we eat here is appealing to me....along with Petunia today, we had a simple salad of tomatoes from the garden, a few steamed haricot vert and a few new potatoes all finished with the very famous vinaigrette. YUM!

Now about the wine......Ro-zay is flowing.....my thumb has a callous from pushing the button on the box....more about the virtues of box wine in France in a later entry.....and I am missing my ice machine.. harvesting ice is a big responsibility here......Rose on ice. C'est le mieux. Have also had several good local Syrah's but we'll talk about red wine more when we get to my house on the 'other side' .......closer to the Rhone Valley...